tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-81757159649473426532024-03-14T05:15:02.795+07:00Sea Bunny world cruiseSusan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.comBlogger189125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-82552097631763068752017-12-02T17:18:00.000+07:002017-12-02T17:18:40.748+07:00St George's Bermuda, founded 1609<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St George's Town Hall</td></tr>
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While Hamilton is the present capital of Bermuda, St George's was the original settlement and harbour. Visiting yachts clear in here, while cruise ships go to Dockyard (the former RN dockyard). Many yachts remain here, visiting the rest of the country by bus and/or ferry.<br />
St Georges retains many old buildings and is a main tourist attraction, particularly around the old town square.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Town pillory</td></tr>
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The pillory and adjacent stocks in the square do not appear to be used as punishment devices any more, but are popular for "selfies' and photos.<br />
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Regular "punishment" is, however, meted out to "a gossip and a scold". This is overseen by the town crier and happens at 1230 most days.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The town crier</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The accused is not without her supporters</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About to receive punishment</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Punishment is carried out</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still denying the charges she was dunked 6 more times</td></tr>
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A tourist was also roped in as the town drunk, although witnesses, including the gossip, maintained that he was drinking with the town crier the previous evening and both were equally guilty. He was sentenced to a whipping at the whipping post, but the sentence was not carried out!<br />
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Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-54960617996886120152017-05-05T01:06:00.000+07:002017-05-05T01:06:20.865+07:00America's Cup boats 2017The teams that will challenge Oracle for the 35th America's Cup are gathering and preparing at Dockyard in Bermuda. While it is difficult to get close to the boats in the harbour because of security and even more difficult to get close to them on the water because of their sheer speed..<br />
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Most of the team bases are in a row. In the morning all the boats, except the Swedish, Artemis Racing and Emiratis NZ were in the water. The other boats are Oracle USA, Softbank Japan, Land Rover /BAR UK and Groupama France.<br />
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Susan persuaded a security guard to escort her in to the village for a reasonably close shot of the Team GB boat. There is a substantial GB base here and the motto is "Bring the cup home".<br />
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In the afternoon, as we took the ferry from Dockyard to Hamilton, several of the boats were out on the water. However only Groupama France, came close enough to the ferry to get a recognisable photo!<br />
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Some of the AC45 boats which will participate in the Red Bull Youth America's Cup after the main event were also out practicing. Since 2013 there has been a great emphasis on youth sailing and community involvement from the participating countries.Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-64834916483126216202017-04-20T21:25:00.000+07:002017-04-21T01:34:00.786+07:00Left the tropics<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RCN_Xxb2Ws8/WPj_G2g0vUI/AAAAAAAAHcM/aQjQcxFzKd0QyoLFJljkDuXIGzYpdcgEwCK4B/s1600/image1-740788.jpg"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RCN_Xxb2Ws8/WPj_G2g0vUI/AAAAAAAAHcM/aQjQcxFzKd0QyoLFJljkDuXIGzYpdcgEwCK4B/s320/image1-740788.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_6411154562739387714" /></a></p>Sea Bunny crossed the Tropic of Cancer northbound at 0815 this morning in 64 W. She has not been in northern temperate latitudes since crossing southbound on 23 November 2001. It is likely that this will have been her final departure from the tropics, at least with us on board.
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<br>The first 2 days of this passage were roughish - winds only up to about 25kn but very confused 3 m seas which didn't make moving about down below easy, Richard did a near somersault over the table and now his back is suffering.
<br>A lot of sea water was sluicing over the decks, some of this found a deck leak, unfortunately above our clothes locker. Susan's gear on the top shelf was nicely packed in polythene bags. Richard's, on the second shelf, was not. Photo shows his supply of underpants drying in the cockpit after being rinsed by Susan.
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<br>Wind and sea now moderated. Indeed we will most likely be motoring a lot to reach Bermuda. We're nearly half way so a small tub of ice cream may be in order to celebrate along with tamarind prawns.Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-76056231653639454762017-04-16T09:28:00.002+07:002017-04-16T09:28:45.474+07:00If it ain't broke - don't use itEileen Quinn's song title on one of her CD's (all cruisers should listen to them - they are so accurate of the cruising life) may be a recipé for ensuring nothing further goes wrong - but it does limit your options!<br />
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From this you may guess that things have been breaking on Sea Bunny!<br />
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While in Portsmouth, Dominica, we wanted to reactivate our diving skills. Apart from diving on the boat to clean the hull and fix things, we had not done any diving since Borneo in 2010, so we booked an refresher course in Cabrits National Park, Portsmouth.<br />
This is where the broken bits started coming to light. Susan wanted to put her gear on and go in the water from Sea Bunny before going on the course. Her (BCD) had a major leak which prevented this. She dived with the dive centre's BCD. While we were down on the first dive the instructor observed that Richard had a leak from the high pressure line connecting the air tank to the pressure gauge. A sudden failure of this at depth would be "interesting" as the entire air tank, starting off at 200 bar pressure, would empty very rapidly and noisily. Finally Susan's dive computer was recording random depths but failing to operate on a dive.<br />
We did, however, update our skills and even saw a sea horse.<br />
Later in Guadaloupe we did more diving at the recommended site of the Ilets à Goyaves (Ilets Pigeon). The first time we cobbled together one working set of equipment - R used the dive operator's regulator assembly and his own BCD. Susan used the operator's BCD but her own regulator and Richard's dive computer. R carried Susan's dive computer in his pocket to check it had a problem - it did . It seems weird to dive with only a pressure gauge but no depth information.<br />
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A priority when we hired a car for a couple of days was to update dive gear. The only equipment shop in Guadaloupe is at the marina at Pointe à Pitre. We acquired new hoses for Richard and a new BCD and dive computer for Susan, so we were all up to spec for our next dive at Pigeon Island.<br />
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FIXED<br />
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In parallel with dive issues the genset had ceased to work, or even start. Symptoms were no compression and evidence of oil, fuel, soot and water around the base of the cylinder head. Aha! thought Richard; blown cylinder head gasket. No problem, we have a replacement, the necessary gaskets and o-rings and I've done this several times.We can go to the marina at Jolly Harbour, Antigua, lift the genset into the cockpit in calm conditions and replace the gasket and o-rings.<br />
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Unfortunately, this diagnosis ignored the fact that a broken cylinder head stud, which could not be moved, would give similar symptoms but be significantly more difficult to fix! Coming up to Easter we decided not to fix here as we have a dead line of crew joining us in Bermuda.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Old genset base - surprising it had lasted 16 years</td></tr>
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Compounding this, on trying to lift the genset, one of the mounting bolts jammed and we lifted the glassed-in base with the genset. Probably best that the bonding failed in Jolly Harbour rather than half way across the Atlantic but it took 4-5 days to build and glass-in a new base and reinstall the now non-functioning genset.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New base being glassed in</td></tr>
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Many yachts cross oceans without the luxury of a genset. We have a powerful alternator on the engine, solar power and wind generators.<br />
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NOT FIXED<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to lift the set onto its new base, which will be bolted to the new frame</td></tr>
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Our Iridium GO satellite communications unit, which we use particularly for email and weather forecasts at sea, normally works well with an external antenna. On arrival at Jolly Harbour it had ceased to do so - failing to connect with the Iridium satellites. Checking resistances appeared to reveal an intermittent fault with the very thin connector between the external antenna cable and the unit itself. We ordered a replacement shipped out from Miami thinking this would fix it.<br />
It hasn't, so we may have to rely on whatever signal we can get with the GO on deck. As it sometimes gets a signal there is just a possibility that the numerous masts etc in Jolly Harbour Marina are preventing a good signal.<br />
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? MAYBE FIXED<br />
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<br />Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-80703252343316930132017-04-16T09:28:00.001+07:002017-04-16T09:28:22.408+07:00Portsmouth - but no HMS VictoryAs befits a place with as illustrious a name as Portsmouth the one in Dominica is well organised for cruisers. The "boat boys" have organised themselves into a cooperative - Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services (PAYS). If you deal with a member you get a professional service whether it be a mooring or a boat or land tour. There is a dinghy dock, an office and even a Sunday night BBQ and disco. We were approached offshore by a member of PAYS, we duly check in the Doyles guide and from then on it become apparent that the members worked as a happy team.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Treehouse of Tia Dalma </td></tr>
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The Indian River trip, in Providence's boat, is up a small river into the rainforest. Our boatman was proud that one of the first things he showed us was a set from the Pirates of the Caribbean films - not having seen the film we cannot comment!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heron</td></tr>
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Bird life was sparse, more crabs were in evidence. The dappled sunlight shining through made it a very pleasant.<br />
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Most interesting was the vegetation..<br />
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Providence proved skillful at producing sculpture out of palm leaves - ours was a humming bird. On the way back, while rowing, he sang in a deep baritone voice the national anthem of Dominica which was heart warming to hear.<br />
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While in Portsmouth we caught up with Phil and Norma (<i>Minnie B</i>), spending a couple of evenings with them and their visitors, including an evening at the PAYS Sunday night BBQ and disco. Stewart and Anne, <i>Bright Eyes</i> also joined us and Stewart reinforced his reputation for stamina by extended dancing with two of the very active local girls - sometimes with both of them together.Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-29210026705618245432017-04-16T09:26:00.000+07:002017-04-16T09:26:33.871+07:00Return to Martinique After saying goodbye to our visitors in St Lucia we headed back to Martinique, with stops in Le Marin mainly for lots of provisioning for future passages and for nostalgic reasons Fort de France. Here we anchored off Fort St Louis to find that the whole area ashore had been pleasantly revamped with walkways and gardens. Once yet another sim card for another country had been purchased so we could go and have fun.<br />
Our hire car was eventually found at the correct cruise ship dock. Tourism has now taken off so much that there are now two.<br />
A leisurely drive up to Grand Riviere through the rain forest, was followed by a leisurely lunch. The sim card didn't do phone tethering and it was quite nerve racking trying to negotiate downtown Fort de France after dark. Fortunately we remembered that the cathredral should be kept to the right side when returning just like the IALA B buoyage system.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grande Riviere - end of the road</td></tr>
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<br />Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-34106413990825165532017-04-16T09:03:00.000+07:002017-04-16T09:26:47.799+07:00Wimping out!Dominica beckoned! We adored Dominica from its high mountains and lush rain forest to the welcoming boat men. In the capital, Roseau, we were able to check in late on a Sunday afternoon. Yes we paid overtime but didn't have to go back, and we got the coastal permit to go to Portsmouth and our outward clearance for up to 2 weeks later all in the one visit.<br />
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There are many "boat boys" after your business. Octavius (Sea Cat) is one of the popular ones. We went on a land tour with him in company with Stewart and Anne of <i>Bright Eyes</i>. Although close to us in age, Stewart appeared to have a significantly higher stamina and risk threshold than us. First stop was at Freshwater Lake for a hike around it.<br />
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The vistas through the clouds were stunning and the gentle rain modified the heat. The arrangement was that Sea Cat would move his taxi to the end of the walk to meet us. We were therefore surprised when he came from behind to meet us. It transpired that he had hidden while we walked past!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clouds roll in</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Titou Gorge</td></tr>
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Next stop was the Titou Gorge. Here you enter the river and swim up the gorge to a waterfall, accompanied by a young guide. The water is 15' deep and there is, obviously, current against you. It is quite strenuous and we all required a tow from the guide to get to the end, where there is fortunately an indent in the rock face where you can stand and rest.<br />
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At the waterfall, you "walk" along a semi-submerged ledge to the waterfall which you then climb and jump or dive back into the pool at the bottom. Stewart went first, after the guide.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stewart being helped to the top - We wimped out at this point!</td></tr>
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We wimped out having seen the effort required to get up the waterfall against the flow of water. Stewart reported than he landed on a submerged rock when he made the jump.<br />
Risk assessments do not appear to be part of the deal here! but it was all great fun.<br />
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After an excellent creole lunch in a riverside restaurant, it was on to Trafalgar Falls. These are twin waterfalls - 125 m and 75 m high. Sea Cat asked who wanted to go to the top for another swim. The falls were some distance away across a boulder field.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stewart & Sea Cat at the base of the falls</td></tr>
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Not seeing any path or other way of ascending beside the falls we opted out again, but Stewart was still game. Maybe we had misunderstood as, in fact the swimming pool and a nearby warm pool are at the bottom of the higher falls -the top of the boulder field,<br />
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Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-37712483047592170252017-03-11T22:53:00.000+07:002017-03-11T22:53:32.011+07:00Children!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
We are slowly recuperating from a 3 week visit by our daughter Catharine and grandsons Archie (10) and Max (7). This was a lovely, if <b>exhausting</b>, experience! The last time we had visitors on the boat, apart from overnight sleepovers, was when Catharine crewed from the Cook Islands to Fiji in 2002!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forepeak before clearing</td></tr>
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Before they arrived the forepeak (aka the Garden Shed) had to be cleared to free up the two bunks (also requiring foam for the cushions to be acquired - we had thoughtfully had covers made when we reupholstered the rest of the boat in 2009). Our folding bikes were given away in Trinidad, allowing sails to be stowed below the bunks.
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We opted to be in Rodney Bay Marina for the first few days of the visit - allowing the boys to get used to living on a boat. This also allowed visits to Massy's supermarkets to obtain essentials such as suitable cereals and other items differing somewhat from our usual diets! It also enabled new snorkelling gear to be tried out in the small pool in the marina.<br />
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The first night at anchor was in the relatively protected anchorage by Pigeon Island, allowing a beach trip.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing the Walker Bay</td></tr>
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We tried a short trial venture to the north of St Lucia to check the conditions. As these were OK we checked out and headed for France - 25 miles away to the north. Ste Anne is a popular cruiser destination in Martinique, generally sheltered in normal trade winds conditions.<br />
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The boys enjoyed their first snorkeling on coral reefs, sailed in the Walker Bay dinghy, chilled out on the floating adventure playground and even sat through an OCC lunch.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring the mangroves</td></tr>
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The wind turned up an unseasonal strong westerly causing (as the OCC net put it) the geriatrics and those with children aboard to seek shelter in the hurricane hole behind the Club Med resort. Although we qualified on both counts we think we'd have gone there anyway! The boys enjoyed an dinghy trip around the mangrove-lined inlet.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the fort on Pigeon Island</td></tr>
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The next day, as the westerly was dying down, it was time to leave Martinique and head back to St Lucia, intending to get to the very sheltered Marigot Bay but ending up back at Pigeon Island, which was OK despite some residual westerly wave action. Catharine and the boys had time to explore Pigeon Island before we left for Marigot Bay in the morning.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy Hour!</td></tr>
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Marigot Bay enabled happy hour by the pool - Archie enjoyed his "virgin colada", Max his "tropical punch" and the rest of us more fortifying cocktails. A problem with the alternator, requiring its replacement with the onboard spare, meant that we stayed an extra night with Catharine and Archie doing a strenuous hike and us all enjoying the Thursday night Pink Panther movie - not to mention another happy hour by or in the pool.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beat that Donald Trump!</td></tr>
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A mooring in the lagoon, at USD 30, is extremely good value as it gives access to all the resort facilities (today's room rate on booking.com - USD 488).
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MY Ocean Paradise</td></tr>
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The superyachts in Marigot Bay impressed the boys, Archie favoured the 53 m sailing yacht Drumbeat (winter charter rate in Caribbean EUR 175,000/ week) while Max liked the 55 m motor yacht Ocean Paradise (winter charter rate in Caribbean USD 300,000-340,000/week). The 42 m motor yacht Maverick (apparently currently for sale for USD 4,350,000) was also favoured!
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helmsman Archie</td></tr>
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Archie steered Sea Bunny to Anse Cochon, a short distance south, which provided the best snorkelling of the visit; probably why many of the dive and tour boats go there.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pre-dive briefing</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geared up</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the water</td></tr>
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Archie, at 10 years old, could do a PADI "discover SCUBA" resort dive. We had previously assessed that SCUBA St Lucia, operating out of the upmarket Anse Chastenet resort just north of Soufriere, was probably the best place for this. They appear to be a very professional outfit and their "house reef" is buoyed off to prevent boat traffic. Catharine (who had dived before when she was with us in 2002) and Archie both dived.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is it a fish? - No, just Max</td></tr>
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Susan took Max snorkelling on the same reef while the others were diving. By this time Max had become a very competent snorkeller.
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Several of the tourist "attractions" of St Lucia are accessed from Soufriere, so it was back to Malgretout bay, between Soufriere town and the Pitons, for a few days.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petit Piton from Tete de Paul</td></tr>
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The nature walk to Tete de Paul, with its superb views of the Pitons,
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the sulphur springs</td></tr>
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the "drive-in volcano" with its sulphur springs (Rotorua it ain't)
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diamond Falls</td></tr>
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and the warm Diamond Falls were all done in a morning with Capt Bob (+1758 7263678) who had accosted us in the street and offered a reasonable (for Soufriere) rate.
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A tour of the Morne Caboulet estate, offering an outline of cacao production, copra, sugercane and native plants was done by local bus from Soufriere, although we had to walk back as buses were not in evidence.<br />
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The anchorage between the Pitons was a bit of a disappointment - the resorts have taken over the bay and the snorkelling did not seem very special.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jumping supervisor</td></tr>
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Jumping and swimming off the boat was a popular pastime with Max, in particular, developing his confidence by the day.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;"> Max<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Archie</td></tr>
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All too soon it was time for Capt Bob to take us all to the airport to send our visitors back to a very chilly Edinburgh.<br />
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<br />Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-23579958888618390172017-02-08T06:03:00.000+07:002017-02-08T06:03:22.385+07:00Superb service - Aqualung UK<br />
The Aqualung distributor for St Lucia is SCUBA St Lucia situated in Anse Chastenet, about 3 miles away and our next planned destination. R took the faulty BCD there the same afternoon. While they were very helpful, they are a dive operator, rather than a repair shop, and could not fix the problem, although they fully identified it and attempted to clean the offending corrosion with ultrasound- no charge..<br />
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Back on the boat an email was sent to Aqualung in the UK. A response was received by the time we got up on Monday morning (4 hour time difference) and the same day a replacement valve unit was being sent, foc, to our daughter to bring out when she visits. Unbeatable serviceSusan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-50575462439848427132017-02-08T06:00:00.000+07:002017-02-08T06:00:33.239+07:00St Lucia - Soufriere and The Pitons, As planned we sailed from Cumberland Bay towards St Lucia. The wind was just north of east which meant that we expected roughish conditions off the north end of St Vincent. As Susan wasn't feeling too good it would have been better to wait a day, which technically would have meant we had to check back in to St Vincent.<br />
As it happened the conditions were not as bad as expected and the wind freed a bit as we cleared the island. This enabled us to sail in nearly the right direction, but to make things more comfortable we did not press the boat and point as high as we could have.<br />
As we approached the south of St Lucia it became apparent that we have some 2 knots of current with us. This was not actually very helpful as we would have been carried well past our destination of Soufriere had we continued to sail. As it was we have to steer some 25 degrees up current of the direct course.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soufriere</td></tr>
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Arriving at Soufriere Bay we had a selection of boat boys offering to attach Sea Bunny to a mooring. It is mandatory to use one of the moorings provided by the Soufriere Marine Management Association (SMMA) to protect the coral. The first mooring proposed by a boat boy appeared to be too close to the beach so he helped us to pick one up close to town. This mooring was white, with a blue band, exactly the same colour scheme as the SMMA ones. We had little choice but to allow the boat boy to pass us the line, as his boat was beside the buoy and he had the line in his hand. For this unwanted service he wanted to charge XCD 30 (about GBP 9). In the end he settled for significantly less and left with the parting shot "I hate the British - you're all racist" - which left us thinking who's racist? Welcome to St Lucia!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Malgretout Bay</td></tr>
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Just before dusk a local boat arrived and told us we were on his private mooring (this proved to be correct). We had to move and find an SMMA mooring in the gathering darkness, which we succeeded in doing in Malgretout Bay, just to the south. This was a more pleasant location but the original one had enabled us to get cleared in to St Lucia before Customs start charging overtime at 1630.<br />
The next morning we checked out the town, discovering a reasonable supermarket.<br />
One of our priorities as we work our way up the coast of St Lucia is to check out activities for Catharine and her boys when they arrive shortly. To this end we went snorkelling in one of the recommended locations around the base of Petit Piton to view the basket sponges.<br />
On leaving Malgretout Bay we got some good views of the Pitons but will visit with our guests.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Pitons</td></tr>
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On our return from snorkelling the base of Petit Piton Richard snorkelled beside Sea Bunny to check on the growth of fouling in the Coppercoat antifouling - not impressed.<br />
While down he noticed that the wire strop that runs between the keel and the skeg to deflect ropes heading to foul the propeller had become detached from the skeg and was hanging down from the keel towards the seabed.<br />
This needed to be fixed, so the next morning (Sunday) Richard donned SCUBA gear to reattach it, a job that would be challenging to say the least with breath-hold diving.<br />
Having descended the 2 m or so necessary he seemed to be having difficulty with depth control, continually rising. The first time he thought he didn't have enough weighting but then realised that he had a problem with his BCD (buoyancy control device - a sort of jacket that can be inflated with air from the SCUBA tank to increase buoyancy and ascend or vented to reduce buoyancy and descend). The inflator valve was passing air into the BCD when air was not required causing the BCD slowly to inflate. It was very lucky that this was discovered an a very shallow dive when the result is merely annoying. At greater depths it could result in an uncontrolled ascent with serious consequences. <br />
He managed to secure the strop then his thoughts urgently turned to having the BCD repaired.Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-28768433873896892462017-02-08T05:55:00.002+07:002017-02-08T05:55:59.574+07:00Canouan, Bequia & St VincentThe Tobago Cays are pleasant and it is a change to be anchored with only the reef between Sea Bunny and the Atlantic swells. However, we find them vastly over-rated and crowded compared with other reef anchorages we have visited. The boat boys are now more disciplined and appear much older!<br />
Sea Bunny left, through the gap in the northern reef. Dire warnings of cross currents setting onto the rocks were probably originally written before GPS and chart plotters that can warn you if you are only a couple of feet off your desired track. The number one eyeball navigation and the colour of the water still remain important in these areas.<br />
Once through the reef the western tip of Canouan is all of 3.2 nM. It was, however, a fairly uncomfortable 3.2 nM as it was nearly head to 20 kn of wind and we had not put the mainsail up to steady the boat - it was, after all, only 3.2 nM!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charlestown and anchorage</td></tr>
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Charlestown Bay is the main anchorage. We were on a mission -dinghy power- having stocked up on petrol we forgot about the 2-stroke oil. A very pleasant afternoon was spent on foot being directed around to find some. Up the steep hill out of the main village we went.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View south from the hilltop - towards Mayreau and Tobago Cays</td></tr>
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At the top of the hill without finding the promised store we were directed down the even steeper hill to the south of the island where the hardware store would definately have it. It didn't but we were told to knock on the door of the house opposite. The lady who answered opened the "Fisherman's Bar" next door where there was indeed some 2-stroke oil amongst the bottles of rum. Mission accomplished!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tamarind Hotel jetty</td></tr>
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Access to shore from the anchorage is via the jetty at the Tamarind Hotel - where there is significant surge even on calm days.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pigeon peas</td></tr>
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Pigeon peas feature on many menus in the area. The tree is quite colourful as it flowers and fruits at the same time.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendship Bay</td></tr>
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Canouan to Bequia is a bit further - 16 nM. This time we sailed it but the wind direction was such that we could not quite make the course - we were heading to Friendship Bay on the south coast - and ended up motoring. Adverse current through the passage between the offshore islands just to the west of the bay was around 2.5 kn. Friendship bay is quite scenic but very rolly. It was a very quiet bay as the "Yacht Club" and associated hotel appeared defunct.<br />
Moving on to Admiralty Bay and Port Elizabeth we found that the current through the islands was again against us at nearly the same strength - so it must be tidal, despite a range of less than 0.5m.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port Elizabeth anchorage</td></tr>
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Port Elizabeth was another place that we had visited in 2002 and it was our favourite island then and it remains so. Sea Bunny initially anchored on the edge of the shallower area in about 10 m and dug the anchor in well. However, a squall came in with about a 90 degrees wind shift and we were called up by the boat behind us saying that we were getting closer! This indeed proved to be the case - the only time we've dragged our anchor since New Year's Day 2007 in Australia and that was in 70 knot wind and foul ground with plastic sacks all over the bottom!<br />
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We re-anchored in shallower water fairly well out in picturesque Princess Margaret Bay which made for a damp dinghy ride into town. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The path to Princess Margaret Beach</td></tr>
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On the Sunday we took a walk along a recently built coastal path from town to Princess Margaret Bay. Parts of it have apparently been damaged in recent bad weather and is officially closed - but still usable.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Princess Margaret Beach</td></tr>
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Over lunch in a beach restaurant,talking to the couples at the next table we discovered one of them was from Shaftesbury and are old friends of our solicitor!<br />
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It is about 50 nM from Admiralty Bay to Vieux Fort or Soufriere in St Lucia - the two southernmost ports of entry in St Lucia. We decided to break the journey in St Vincent to ensure arriving in St Lucia in daylight during the working hours of customs. After clearing out from St Vincent and the Grenadines the boat must leave within 24 hours. This allowed us to check out from Port Elizabeth, overnight in Cumberland Bay on St Vincent and continue on to St Lucia the next day.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Line to shore from anchor location</td></tr>
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Cumberland Bay is extremely deep until very close to the beach. The guide book warns that the locals look like the bad guys from a spagetti western but are very hospitable. Anchored in 25 m and a helpful boat boy took a warp ashore from the stern. We haven't used this technique since Great Barrier Island in New Zealand in 2003.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mojito's restaurant</td></tr>
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There are about 6 restaurants in Cumberland Bay. "Our" boat boy tried to convince us that, having used him to help moor, we had to eat in "his" associated restaurant. We preferred to try the restaurant nearest to where we we moored - Mojitos. We were the only diners. The meal took a long time to arrive but when it did it was very good - as was the mojito!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cumberland Bay</td></tr>
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In the morning another boat boy was available to release on shore line on time.<br />
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Result very low key bay plus delightful people.<br />
<br />Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-19772804552932231202017-01-23T20:48:00.000+07:002019-02-12T14:52:00.576+07:00Closed the loop!!!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrived Union Island (St Vincent & the Grenadines)</td></tr>
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Sea
Bunny arrived in the approaches to Clifton Harbour on Union Island at 1330 on
20 January 2017, crossing her track from 22 January 2002 when she left Clifton turning right, westbound for the ABCs, Panama and the Pacific. Crossing your outbound track
defines the completion of a circumnavigation. This one therefore took us 14
years, 364 days and 5 hours.<br />
Last time it was a bit nerve racking navigating the reef in the harbour from paper chart at the chart table; now with large chart plotter in the cockpit it was easier. But the number one eyeball still held good.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finding your way around is easy!</td></tr>
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A celebration drink of the diminishing stock of South African MCC (Méthode Cap Classique - Champagne) was followed by a delicious meal of mahi-mahi ashore.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plenty of fresh produce</td></tr>
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We couldn't really remember much of our previous visit but found Union Island to be charming with lots of restaurants, small supermarkets and a market square, for the tourists, with stalls selling fresh fruit and veg - at a price! - as most is shipped in from the US.<br />
Apparently the first arrivals on the island were around 5400 BC.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leave room for the ferry!</td></tr>
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While we were ashore for our evening meal the ferry from St Vincent came in, slowly and with searchlight blazing, turned and berthed stern-to a fairly narrow jetty. When it left next morning we saw that it had dropped an anchor to hold her bow in place. We could also see that anchoring in the place where Chris Doyle places an anchor sign in his Windward Islands pilot book would be unwise - as it's directly on the ferry's path. We were anchored further off the channel - about 50 m off her track.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dressed overall in celebration</td></tr>
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On leaving the harbour this time we turned to port back to the Tobago Cays, anchoring with only Horseshoe Reef between Sea Bunny and the swells of the open Atlantic Ocean. In 2002 it was windy and swelly here but on this visit it is calm and beautiful but just as crowded.<br />
After an attempt to adjust the outboard engine for the dinghy Sea Bunny was dressed overall in celebration of our circumnavigation. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green turtle grazing</td></tr>
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We went snorkelling to find turtles in cold 27 degree water.Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-26595670685603696462017-01-20T01:49:00.000+07:002017-01-20T01:49:02.974+07:00Grenada and Carriacou<br />
Thursday 29 December saw us leaving Trinidad for the overnight passage to Prickly Bay on the south of Grenada. A fairly uncomfortable passage with the wind fine on the starboard bow and a lumpy sea. There was enough wind to enable good boat speed, which meant we had to slow down for several hours in torrential rain so as to arrive in daylight - not very comfortable.<br />
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2017 was seen in at the Tiki Bar at the Prickly Bay Marina complete with steel band and all drinks included.<br />
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After drying out from the passage we begain a sojurn of the sheltered quiet anchorages first in the next inlet to the east - Secret Harbour then to Hog Island anchorage. Several of the deep inlets on the south coast are connected by dinghy passages, so one can move between them without venturing out into the swell. This we did to attend a dinghy raft up concert on wet Sunday afternoon.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Carenage</td></tr>
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Next stop was St George's, the capital of Grenada. The anchorage outside is a bit rolly because of the northern swell at present but OK and a short dinghy ride to the dinghy docks outside the Island water World Chandlery and the Foodland supermarket in the shelter of the Lagoon. The old part of the town, surrounding the inner harbour - The Carenage - is picturesque.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Carenage and Fort George</td></tr>
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We are told - by Grenadians - that it is the most scenic in the eastern Caribbean.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruise ship - St George's in the background</td></tr>
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St George's features on the itinerary of many Caribbean cruise ships with one or two at the cruise ship dock every couple of days.<br />
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The larger ships dwarf the town but there are some smaller ones sporting masts and even sails.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruise ships departing</td></tr>
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They generally arrive during the night and leave in the evening.<br />
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From St George's we did an island tour but before that as she hadn't fallen for the last 30 year Susan missed the jetty. Having returned to Sea Bunny to change and attend to the vast number of coral grazes she managed to get ashore the second time.<br />
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The tour, with an excellent guide, Dexter from Henry's Safari Tours,, took in the NW coast around to Sauteurs, where the last indigenous Carib warriors leaped to their deaths over a cliff rather than be subjugated by the French.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chocolate tree</td></tr>
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On the way we visited a nutmeg packing facility (1.5 M lb - about 680 tonnes - exported annually) and a chocolate factory. When the chocolate pod id broken open the beans are surrounded by juicy white flesh - which is very tasty. While trying it is important not to try to bite on the bean itself - it is certainly not pleasant tasting before it has been dried and roasted.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chocolate beans drying in the sun</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original water-wheel</td></tr>
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The River Antoine rum distillery, dating from 1785, still uses the original overshot water wheel for power to crush the sugar cane.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cane crusher - water powered</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vats for concentrating the cane liquor</td></tr>
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Most of the energy for concentrating the cane liquor comes from burning the residual cane after the juice has been extracted. From the large amounts of spent cane around it appears that there is more than is needed. We didn't ask about the risk of spontaneous combustion in the huge piles. The actual distillation uses wood as fuel, presumable because more intense heat is needed.<br />
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High tech it isn't; the contrast with the Bundaberg distillery in Queensland is striking but the product is pretty good and the carbon footprint must be low!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Distillation</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lower crater lake</td></tr>
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As a volcanic island Grenada has crater lakes, one fairly close to sea level and one in the highlands. Both are quiet and scenic.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The upper crater lake</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Halifax harbour</td></tr>
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There are also nearly deserted beaches. And quiet anchorages, although the quietness of Halifax Harbour probably owes a lot to the smouldering rubbish tip.
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Some recycling of rubbish to beautify does, however, take place.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hillsborough the main (only) town on Carriacou</td></tr>
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Carriacou is only a hop and skip away and a charming island. Drier then Grenada and, apparently, with much less usage of marijuana. Very little grown here so supply vessels make a regular run. In the north the wooden boat building trade is now dying out. Sea Bunny is anchored from the northerly swell in Tyrell Bay while the GRP on deck was cut and polished for the first time in a couple of years and the gen set exhaust was welded.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View across to Petite Martinique & Petit St Vincent</td></tr>
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A 2-3 hour island tour enabled us to see most of the island and views to other islands of the Grenadines, including Union Island (St Vincent) which is where Sea Bunny will cross her outbound track from 2001 and complete her circumnavigation..Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-16584746153423033632017-01-19T23:43:00.000+07:002017-01-19T23:43:08.866+07:00Christmas in TrinidadPowerboats, where Sea Bunny was repaired, was our main base for December. Putting the mast up was quick compared to having to refix every line on her except the outhaul. The teak bathing platform benefited from a hundred new screws and freshly sanded planks before being lowered into place.<br />
The happy staff and facilities were second to none, included cherry picker to take you off the boat; and we highly recommend them. So it was a busy, busy time between Sea Bunny and the chandlery Budget Marine. Our breaks were to markets and supermarkets to restock via local taxi which delivered us back to Sea Bunny.<br />
Caribbean choirs with steel bands are famous so a group of us, dressed in our finery, attended a excellent "Christmas Calabash" concert by the local Lydons Choir, The male voices sounded like melted chocolate making a delicious evening.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark 1 chandelier</td></tr>
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As time ticked on and northerly winds and high seas persisted Sea Bunny remained in Trinidad for Christmas, enjoying a yachty's BBQ lunch at Crews Inn. Susan has asked for a chandelier for the new home so Santa made one out of tinsel and lights. It was not <i>exactly</i> what she had in mind - gave her ideas though!
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9iSyN8w3GYo/WHvPoQnY3hI/AAAAAAAAHKE/x4-NlU2SecIvuyDva3YoTb0i58wORxrywCLcB/s1600/PC261419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9iSyN8w3GYo/WHvPoQnY3hI/AAAAAAAAHKE/x4-NlU2SecIvuyDva3YoTb0i58wORxrywCLcB/s320/PC261419.JPG" width="320" /></a>On boxing Day Bill called on the VHF offering a lift to the Caroni Swamp Bird Sanctuary- we jumped at it.<br />
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This involved a boat trip down a canalised channel to the main lakes forming the wetlands.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Scarlet ibis</td></tr>
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The highlight would be to view the roosting at sun set of thousands of the national bird of Trinidad - the scarlet ibis. Wow what a sight to witness literally thousands of scarlet ibis and great egrets coming in to roost on one of the islands in the lake.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Egrets heading for the roost site</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the roosting site</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bats observed by the channel</td></tr>
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Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-43038735130482464362016-12-24T23:38:00.000+07:002016-12-24T23:38:55.000+07:00Catch-up!It's been a busy four months since our last post in August.<br />
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At that time we were heading from Brazil up to Tobago. We spent a delightful 10 days in Man of War Bay in Tobago before moving down to Powerboats at Chaguaramas in Trinidad where we hauled out for the damage sustained in Tuzi Gazi in 2015 to be repaired.<br />
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After another few days we left Sea Bunny in the care of the yard and various contractors while we flew back to the UK for our second visit of the year.<br />
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One of the activities while in the UK was to start house-hunting for a base when we finally return there - which will, hopefully, be in 2017. We had been searching online in an area roughly from Exeter in the west north-east to Hereford and eastwards to East Kent, with a separate area around York. After looking at a couple of new builds around Exeter we concluded that this was further west than we really wanted to be.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh and Jake at Portland</td></tr>
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Fortunately our son Nik and wife Lou had just bought a second home in Poole on the south coast and we were able to base ourselves there while looking in central southern England. This enabled us to meet up with the New Forest branch of the family.<br />
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Suffice it to say that we visited an estate agent in the Dorset town of Shaftesbury (home of the Hovis bread advert featuring a very steep cobbled street see <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold_Hill,_Shaftesbury" target="_blank">here</a>). They claimed to have "the very house for you" on their books. About 6 weeks later, having delayed our return to Trinidad, we own it!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Light show at the Royal Botanical Gardens, Edinburgh</td></tr>
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While the machinations of the process of buying a house in England ground on we made our second trip of the year to Scotland.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our new house</td></tr>
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We had about 10 days in the house between completion of the purchase and flying out - arranging contractors for some urgent work, purchasing all sorts of domestic items (e.g beds!) and sorting some of the more urgent areas of the garden that will have grown rampantly by our return in June 2017.<br />
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Very friendly neighbours are keeping an eye on the house and it is only an hour or so from James and Jane in Bransgore and from Nik and Lou's Poole house.<br />
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Returning to Sea Bunny in Trinidad on 2 December we moved into a different type of work mode, getting the boat ready for the move up the Caribbean and hopefully the Atlantic crossing in May/June..<br />
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We are now back in the water, but still in Powerboats.. Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-11255107548649131712016-08-10T22:08:00.003+07:002016-08-10T22:08:33.252+07:00Passage Brazil - Tobago<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">The passage posts we managed to send to an incorrect address - so here is a synopsis.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">On the 4th day out from Jacaré ( 31 July), still in good down wind conditions, Sea Bunny crossed the Equator for the 4th time (with us) at 0013 ship's time (0313 UTC) at latitude 43 24.228 W. Celebrations were of the fruit juice type.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Mostly we were making good speed with 200 nm days over the ground courtesy of 2-3 kn of favourable current. Crossing the wide mouths of the Amazon 300nm to port.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hitch-hiker</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Then off the coast to Suriname the wind and current both eased off a bit but still making 7+ knots over the ground.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">In the passage planning we had to include not passing Iles du Salut in French Guyana when there would be launch activity for the European Ariane space rockets. As there was enough wind to keep the sails drawing when we passed and we were well rested, Sea Bunny did not need to stop at the islands.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">Soon after we entered the ITCZ (Intertropical Convergence Zone - used to be called the Doldurms), so the Iron Topsail had to come on. There was enough fuel to keep her going until Tobago where we will stop for a week or so. We ran out of the strong Guiana current (2-3 knots in the right direction) and found an east-setting counter-current for about a day, slowing us down dramatically.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">On the last evening the weather looked a bit unsettled although there was no rain showing on the radar. We put in a second reef as a precaution for the night. Half an hour later we were hit by a 45-knot squall with torrential rain.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">We rounded the north of Tobago at first light and entered Man of War Bay, anchoring at 0750 local time on 8 August.. Unfortunately arrivals outside Customs' office hours 0800-1200 incur a charge, so the 10 minutes cost us USD 50 $5 a minute! We didn't get away with "about 8 o'clock"!</span>Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-3601146928278528762016-07-27T07:52:00.001+07:002016-07-27T07:52:38.485+07:00Brazil, Jacare - Sail repairs and musicWhen we took the genoa down in St Helena to put the twin headsail running rig up we noticed a few areas requiring attention.<br />
As far as we know Jacaré does not boast a sailmaker. However, the Marina Village does have a large undercover floor area where a sail can be spread out. Rather than taking the sail down below on Sea Bunny we opted to use this area, which had the advantage of being right by the bar, with cold beer.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Movin the sail</td></tr>
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Transporting the sail there was easy with our folding sack trolley. It would have been less easy the next day when the local authority dumped a lot of rubble and dirt to "repair" the road before the festival of São Pedro.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Project Director aka Chief sail repairer</td></tr>
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In fact the repairs took a quick 3 hours by hand and no beer for the repairer (but one for the trolley pusher)..<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Party boat</td></tr>
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Every evening at about 1630 hours<br />
just upsteam from the marina a small boat puts out from the shore and a saxophonist plays Ravel's Bolero. He has been doing this for, apparently, 25 years and is the Guinness Book of Records. Tourist come on party boats up the river to witness it and dance on the way. It is a good marker for us as it is mosquito beware time.<br />
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Everywhere is Brazil there is music, in the streets, from the shacks it gives a happy feel.<br />
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Today,in the supermarket the police were handing out leaflets about their powers and how they work well with other authorities.<br />
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Yesterday we went to the Policia Federal to get our passports stamped to leave and customs to clear out the boat. Today we went to the Port Captain's office in Joao Pessoa to get port clearance as the office in Cabadelo, next to customs, has apparently been burnt down.<br />
<br />Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-90600473619658925352016-07-27T04:24:00.000+07:002016-07-27T04:24:40.386+07:00Brazil - ManausWith disembarkation from Tucano occurring at 0715 we effectively had two days to explore.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the rubber baron's mansion.</td></tr>
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Before going there we had not realised that the French, not the Portuguese, dominated Manaus during it's glory years.<br />
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Our first trip was another boat excursion, this time some 10 km <br />
up the Amazon to the Museu do Seringal Villa Paraiso. This is a reconstruction of a "rubber baron's" mansion (made for a film) and includes an overview of the rubber production process and how the staff and indentured labourers mainly from the north of Brasil lived.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Trying on a rubber tapper's lantern</td></tr>
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Richard tried on a helmet that would have been worn by the labourers as they went into the plantations at midnight when the rubber sap was rising.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">The municipal market in Manaus built in 1902 is close to the port. It is a copy of the Halles market in Paris. A most impressive structure - constructed of iron from the UK.</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">We purchased the most wonderful tasting nuts - Brazils naturally.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fish market</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All sorts of products on sale. Perhaps not the same!</td></tr>
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One of the highlights of Manaus is its opera house. Constructed in 1896 at the height of the town's prosperity it was based on La Scala and the Paris Opera and has apparently the second-best acoustics in South America.<br />
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We went to a modern dress performance of The Divine Comedy We may not have followed the expressive dialogue but it was evidently very funny.<br />
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The ceiling panels were painted in Paris and shipped out. The centre represents a view from under the Eiffel Tower.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Model - 36000 pieces of Lego!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Interior of Igrejia Sao Sebastian.</span></td></tr>
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The opulence of some of the churches also reflects the city's former wealth.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit OTT?</td></tr>
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The Igrejia Sao Sebestian had tightly packed bunches of white flowers everywhere!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street entertainment.</td></tr>
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We worked out how this is done while filling the coffers of a juice vendor.<br />
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Manaus is an industralised port city that is trying to gentify itself and recover some of its former glory. Just over 1 million GBP is being spent to renovate the park outside the cathredral<br />
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<br />Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-65524527020215939672016-07-25T01:15:00.001+07:002016-07-25T01:15:10.184+07:00Brazil - Rio Negro,<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r5JEQWv5atI/V4y_YeokARI/AAAAAAAAG6I/9-B-XFgVS90vKrupzfbPEL4OPBttNT1IgCKgB/s1600/P7120895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a>As implied by the name the Rio Negro is a "black river". The water is reasonably clear and coloured by tannins which run off from the rainforest through which it flows. Just downstream from the city of Manaus the Rio Negro joins the Amazon.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r5JEQWv5atI/V4y_YeokARI/AAAAAAAAG6I/9-B-XFgVS90vKrupzfbPEL4OPBttNT1IgCKgB/s1600/P7120895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r5JEQWv5atI/V4y_YeokARI/AAAAAAAAG6I/9-B-XFgVS90vKrupzfbPEL4OPBttNT1IgCKgB/s400/P7120895.JPG" width="400" /></a>We joined the MY Tucano for a 4-night cruise up the Rio Negro in the Anavihanas National Park, one of the world's largest fluvial archipelagos.<br />
Taking up to 18 passengers, on our trip there were only three other guests, so we were given a cabin upgrade - promising start!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise over the Rio Negro</td></tr>
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Sunsets and sunrises were spectacular without another boat in sight.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canoe heading into the jungle</td></tr>
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The structure of each day comprised a wake-up call at 0530 or 0600, coffee and porridge, a nature-watching trip in one of the canoes, breakfast, a morning jungle walk, lunch, an afternoon activity and a night canoe trip either before or after dinner.<br />
The canoe trips explored some of the smaller tributaries and the night one, in particular, was exciting as it got right into the flooded forest.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spot the small caiman here - left end of the log. Seen by the guide at about 100m.</td></tr>
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Amazonia has the largest biodiversity and lowest density of flora and fauna in the world. So given the dense canapy wildlife is much more difficult to spot here than in more open countryside. By opting to go with Souza, the guide, in the canoes rather than on our own in the available kayaks we think we actually saw more as his eyes were much more attuned to spotting things than ours. Frequently it could be a minute or more before we could make out a creature he was pointing at.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pair of night hawks</td></tr>
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Much of the fauna spotted was birds, often at quite a distance, making photography difficult even with zoom lens. Just to be in this setting was absolutely magical.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black tailed trogon- on the branch</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow rumped cacique</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green beetle</td></tr>
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Also quite a few insects. With one square mile of rainforest housing up to 50,000 species detailed identification is difficult!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spot the stick insect</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cricket or grasshopper</td></tr>
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Always slightly conscious of all the nasty creatures that could fall into the boat or on to someone This harmless fellow landed on Richard's back on one of the morning trips.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lace cap or stinkhorn mushroom (possibly phallus indusiatus)</td></tr>
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There are, of course, lots of fungi helping to convert dead vegetation back into carbon dioxide and water.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tree frog</td></tr>
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On the night trips we heard numerous frogs. Souza spotted this one at a distance during the day.<br />
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Spiders could be induced out of their holes under trees using a stick.<br />
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Mammals were hard to spot - again Souza's sharp eyes came into play.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bare faced squirrel monkey</td></tr>
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There was a troop of some 50-100 squirrel monkeys travelling through the forest. Catching one on camera as it jumped across a gap in the foliage was challenging!<br />
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We never got a good shot of the river dolphins, despite seeing them quite often.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Susan with piranha</td></tr>
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One of the afternoon trips was piranha fishing. Susan caught the largest of the group and followed up by eating it later.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Settlement - note the satellite dish!</td></tr>
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Another was a trip to visit a family who had settled on the riverbank. Apparently a claim can be made and if the land is developed the government will grant title. This family had a plot measuring 1000 m x 250 m (25 Ha or about 62 acres) and were mainly growing manioc (cassava). The fairly involved family activity of processing the tuber to remove the toxic juice and end up with a grain-like substance was explained. They had just cleared more land and were about to plant pineapples. These are so sweet here.<br />
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Most transport here is necessarily by water. This "school bus" has been in operation for the last 10 years.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fast trip to school</td></tr>
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When we were young a speedboat ride was a special holiday treat - here it is a daily occurrence for the kids.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ponte Rio Negro, central section</td></tr>
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On the last afternoon of the trip we passed under the bridge across the Rio Negro just upstream of Manaus - air clearance 55m. The bridge, 3.5 km long, links Manaus to Iranduba on the Amazon.<span style="background-color: white; color: #545454; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 18.2px;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meeting of the waters</td></tr>
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The "meeting of the waters" where the Rio Negro flows into the muddy Amazon is quite marked and persists for some 15 km downstream.<br />
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Finally - the crew of the MY Tucano, who were all excellent but did not add to our understanding of Brazilian Portuguese!<br />
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<br />Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-34511690479853476092016-07-21T06:06:00.000+07:002016-07-21T06:06:09.675+07:00Brazil & Argentina - Iguaçu Falls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel dos Cataratas</td></tr>
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Stayed at the hotel in the national park, where from the room the roar of the falls can be heard. The 70 year old birthday boy was relaxing. Good time of year to be here cool and not crowded.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Devils Throat. The viewing platform is very wet!</td></tr>
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Worth doing both the Argentinean and Brazilian sides.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dried off!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Lots of rainbows in the spray</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All these are in Argentina</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Devil's Throat from the top on the Argentine side</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down the throat</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can't get much closer than this!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even some of the wildlife not scared away by the crowds. Yellow rumped cacique</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most of the falls are in Argentina</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quite a view for a birthday lunch!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Birthday boy!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting feat of balance. Chilean flamingo.</td></tr>
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and don't forget the super bird park!
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red breasted toucan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue and yellow macaw</td></tr>
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Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-42851546108681779592016-07-21T05:45:00.000+07:002016-07-21T05:45:51.962+07:00Brazil - Corcovado and Sugar Loaf MountainIn true tourist style via Uber, shank's pony, funicular train and cable car we have been to the dizzy heights and concluded that Rio has lots of well maintained parks, off shore islands and that the rainforest spills into the city at every opportunity. This gives it a very outdoorsy feel.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Funicular to Corcovado<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Crowds at the statue</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Sugar Loaf and the city from Corcovado</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Cable car to Sugar Loaf Mountain</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Across to Copacabana from the top</td></tr>
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Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-15197799117683109132016-07-10T21:23:00.002+07:002016-07-10T21:23:46.146+07:00Brazil - Rio de Janeiro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
OK so it's a month from the Olympics and here we are in 'hostile' Rio. We took the view - don't go down empty streets. Brazilians could not have been more caring and helpful. Our hotel - Arene de Leme, much recommended - was right at the northern end of Copacabana Beach, with an excellent view along it to the volley ball stadium ( washed away once - now with a sand barrage to the Atlantic) and Ipanema beyond. This is mid winter very pleasant for walking - not many dental floss bikinis on the beach.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copacabana beach from the hotel roof bar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steps leading to the Santa Theresa area</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior of Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Praca XV square</td></tr>
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Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-29390907867887779242016-07-02T08:26:00.002+07:002016-07-02T08:26:38.384+07:00Jacare - Solstice and Saints daysA week ago was the winter solstice. Yes - we know that it was the summer solstice in the UK but we're in the southern hemisphere here.<br />
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In the Vila do Pescadores (fishermen's village) in Jacaré (at the end of the pontoon) this is taken seriously. The street is decked out in bunting and large stacks of wood are arranged along the road, to be lighted at dusk.<br />
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Before viewing this spectacle it is necessary to get in the mood. This involves imbibing some of the local cocktail - caparinha. (Take a limes and crush it with sugar. Add a liberal dose of cachaca - a distilled spirit from a sugarcane juice base, so a sort of white rum.) Top up with ice and drink. Very refreshing and moreish but quite hangover inducing.<br />
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The fires are big. Some of the bits of timber would make a Tudor Yule log look like a twig and were still smoldering a week later. Fortunately the road is cobbled, not tarmac.<br />
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The next day was the feast of<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> <span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; line-height: 18.2px;">São João</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; font-weight: bold; line-height: 18.2px;">. </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; line-height: 18.2px;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">We're not sure if some of the decoration was due to this - certainly the local supermarket was working reduced hours.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; line-height: 18.2px;">This week we had the feast of </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; line-height: 18.2px;">São Pedro. As this is a fishing village this was an important event. We realised that something was up as the potholes in the dirt road were filled in with rubble and earth (not much of an improvement as neither a grader nor a roller were used) and a tent was installed (next to the pontoon) for a mass, In the afternoon a statue of the saint in a flower-decked model boat was brought from the local church and loaded on to a fishing boat at the end of the fishermen's pier.
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The boat then set off in convoy down the river. This was accompanied by large quantities of thunder flashes, some of which could have doubled as mortar shells.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; line-height: 18.2px;">The massive party in the tent, now relinquished by the priest, went on into the night - at full volume.</span></span><br />
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Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-5787344369698590152016-07-02T07:32:00.000+07:002016-07-02T07:32:38.503+07:00UK visit Cambridge reunion and family catch-up<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span id="goog_812726510"></span><span id="goog_812726511"></span>How do you choose your friends? Will they stand the test of time? Well the girls that Susan met 50 years ago when she trained as a nurse at Addenbrooke's hospital in Cambridge certainly have!<br />
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This is the first time that we had actually all been together since ? our wedding day.<br />
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The reunion was a true walk down the Cambridge memory lane, the local pub on the Cam, punting, passing the spot where Susan met Richard, tea in Fitzbillies.<br />
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We were even invited in to the house that we all shared. Wonderful - roll on the next occasion!<br />
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As usual on our UK visits, it is time to catch up with family<br />
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The run on boys in the next generation but one has come to a halt. This visit coincided with the christening of the first female in the family for a while - Emily Grace - in Birmingham. it was a glorious day.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xVqmdffjmD0/V3cG_oaXGEI/AAAAAAAAE1Y/SCDkKTHw96Qv3o4WdBIlRWsGwqNLBjelQCKgB/s1600/P5300357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xVqmdffjmD0/V3cG_oaXGEI/AAAAAAAAE1Y/SCDkKTHw96Qv3o4WdBIlRWsGwqNLBjelQCKgB/s320/P5300357.JPG" width="240" /></a>Archie had a cub camp while we were in Scotland. The necker had to be perfect!</div>
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Max remains as photogenic as ever.<br />
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Rapha is pretty good in a photo too!Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8175715964947342653.post-66689772642361180972016-07-02T04:10:00.001+07:002016-07-02T06:14:04.166+07:00OlindaContrary to what might be assumed from the lack of recent entries here, we have not disappeared down a hole in the ocean, just been a bit busy.<br />
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In April shortly after our arrival in Brazil a side trip to the city of Olinda, founded in 1535 and a World Heritage site. It is just north of the more modern centre of Recifé and a two-hour taxi ride from our marina location at Jacaré.<br />
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We went with Phil and Norma (Minnie B), who were our guides and the trusted driver Benardo. There are numerous churches, convents, monasteries and ancient buildings some in a sad state of repair, which could take days to explore.<br />
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Our initial visit was to the Church and Monastery of Sao Bento (presuambly not the inventor of Japanese bento boxes). Originally built in 1582, it was destroyed by the Dutch and rebuilt in the 18th century.<br />
Presumably the Dutch, along with the British, took a dim view of the Pope's splitting of newly discovered lands between the Portuguese and Spanish.<br />
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The baroque interior of the church is sumptuously ornate.<br />
Brazilians are renowned as intricate wood carvers which in<br />
ecclesiastical settings are covered with gold leaf.<br />
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Around the city there is a lot of street art, some would call this graffiti, but it certainly brightens the walls up.<br />
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True fans of carnival have gravitated towards cities like Olinda which has striven to remain loyal to the values of the original pagan festival. Here the music is not the samba. Raucous street parades feature giant papier-mache puppets that caricature local or national celebrities. The leading creator of puppets, Silvio Botelho de Almeid, has his work exhibited in museums outside Brazil.<br />
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The cathedral is up a quite long steep hill. Some people find it a challenge requiring a sit down.<br />
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Or maybe it's just somewhere to admire the view over the city and across to Recifé.
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The Cathedral enjoys a commanding position above the town. Unfortunately it was closed by the time we got there - unlike the stalls on the square in front of it - time for the first caparinha (drink based on crushed limes, sugar and a local spirit - very alcoholic).<br />
Thus fortified we headed to the recommended restaurant - Oficina do Sabor for a sublime signature dish - lobster in cheese sauce served in pumpkin - simply delicious.<br />
Taxi Bernado!Susan and Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15093021325562542098noreply@blogger.com0