Back on the boat we found that the anchorage was also affected. As long as the residue didn't get wet it blew away in the wind and the residue was quite easy to vacuum up.
 |
| Clearing up the cane ash |
Sunday, October 11, 2015
Snowing ash - Mauritius
This is cane sugar country, we have resisted the factory tours but became caught up when outside a vast shopping mall near Grand Bay and noticed a strong smell of burning,smoke haze and a lot of black charred slivers being swept up. The sugar cane fields were being burned.
Back on the boat we found that the anchorage was also affected. As long as the residue didn't get wet it blew away in the wind and the residue was quite easy to vacuum up.
Back on the boat we found that the anchorage was also affected. As long as the residue didn't get wet it blew away in the wind and the residue was quite easy to vacuum up.
Eureka - Mauritius
After a few days rafted up in the Caudan Basin, Port Louis; Sea Bunny moved a few miles north to Grand Bay. The bay is shallow, mostly around 6 m, but with significantly shallower patches on the way in, requiring a high tide entrance.
Here, car hiring with Phil and Norma (Minnie B) we found that much of Mauritius is cultivated with only a few areas of National Park, mostly in the mountainous regions.
 |
| Eureka - the dining room |
The first of these we visited was Eureka, a well restored building with much original furniture, occupied as a home until 1980 and set in well-maintained grounds.
The house now offers a restaurant, with food prepared in the original kitchens.
 |
| Eureka |
 |
| St Aubin - the old plantation house, now a restaurant |
Further south, and feeling hungry, we stopped at another plantation house, this one specifically converted to a restaurant which is one of the best throwbacks to colonial times complete with chandeliers and antique furniture.
Le Saint Aubin also comprises a rum distillery,museum and nursery growing anthurium flowers and vanilla
 |
| Black River Gorges National Park |
The Black River Gorges National Park at 2% of the island's surface is the largest area of natural beauty. An easily accessible viewpoint gives an impressive vista from the clifftop.
 |
| Black River Gorges National Park |
During the morning the integral belt on Richard's walking trousers had disintegrated. Much thought had gone into how to keep them up when much to the amusement of all, Susan negotiated a temporary string fix with some stallholders from the souvenir stand.  |
| Shiva |
 |
| Hanuman and others |
Monday, September 14, 2015
A day at the races - Port Louis, Mauritius 29 August 2015
Horse racing is a big thing in Mauritius. The race track is reputed to be the second oldest in the world, or in the southern hemisphere, depending on who you are listening to. The Turf Club of Mauritius runs weekly meetings from April to December - which must make the track one of the most heavily used.
The Turf Club also makes foreign visitors most welcome.
As the first race was at 1230 our group of 12 met on the dockside at 1100. A minibus had been organised by Laurie (Apogee) and the group was made up by the crews of Apogee, Felix, Minnie B, Traveller, Xenix, Tigger and Sea Bunny.
As the preferred dress code for men is jackets and ties Richard had borrowed a jacket for the occasion and lent out two of the 3 ties he has on board - one borrower became a very temporary member of Channel Sailing Club and another had Richards "bunny" tie (lots of rabbits - not the Playboy variety).
On arrival at the course we were met by Mr Lalah, a guest services agent.. He apologised that there was not a free box available but saw us comfortably installed in the stand, with bar, food service and Tote to hand.
We had to accept that the view of the mountains in the background over the course is marginally more impressive than our familiar view of the Surrey Hills from the Epsom Grandstand. The crowds in the centre where access is free, as at Epsom, possibly rival those on the Hill on a non-Derby race day.
In race 3 a horse called Max Rapax was running. With a grandson called Max one of us had to back it - Susan did. It duly won the race while Richard's horse - Why Worry - was declared an non-starter after problems at the start.
View full race reports of the whole meeting here.
Mr Lalah returned on several occasions to ensure we were enjoying the visit and to escort us to places normally off limits to the general public. We watched the horses in the paddock and watched Max Rapax's victory from the management box.
We went to the visitors' area beside the photofinish/commentary box, following which we were invited inside and given an explanation of the process
.
We probably just about broke even on our wagers but were a bit down when minibus, entrance, food and drink were taken into account - obviously out of practice.
This visit can be classified as a Mauritian highlight.
The Turf Club also makes foreign visitors most welcome.
 |
| The group gathers - jackets and ties preferred for men |
As the preferred dress code for men is jackets and ties Richard had borrowed a jacket for the occasion and lent out two of the 3 ties he has on board - one borrower became a very temporary member of Channel Sailing Club and another had Richards "bunny" tie (lots of rabbits - not the Playboy variety).
On arrival at the course we were met by Mr Lalah, a guest services agent.. He apologised that there was not a free box available but saw us comfortably installed in the stand, with bar, food service and Tote to hand.
 |
| Potential winner in the photofinish box |
 |
| Max Rapax is led in |
 |
| Max Rapax wins - photofinish image from the Turf Club website |
 |
| The paddock |
 |
| Original photofinish camera - no longer in use! |
 |
| The present photofinish set up |
.
This visit can be classified as a Mauritian highlight.
Goodbye Rodrigues - Hello Mauritius
 |
| Port Mathurin anchorage |
Non urgent yachtsman request - picture framing - the cabinet makers will do it - back within a week very good workmanship - price very reasonable.
 |
| Definitely needed replacing! |
Want jerrycans filled by a meticulous garage attendant with a smile? Take your dinghy to the petrol station at high tide. Not a drop spilt - exactly 20 l (+/- 0.00l) in each can.
How do you do the Sega (a dance that slaves did) someone will show. Dance the day away on Sunday at the night club starting at 1400 for the very very old becoming more youthful as night unfolds.
On the two and half day passage to Mauritius we kept expecting the wind and sea state to increase but it did not. So we enjoyed a downwind sail in only 15kn with 2 m seas. The only downside (financially) being that a ? shark took a liking to the towed generator impeller but we had a spare. The shark probably had severe indigestion.
 |
| Approaching Port Louis |
Within a week the rig has been checked, mainsail repaired, bottom scrubbed and Richard is busy on the week installation and upgrade for a second Silentwind wind generator to replace the old Air-X that bit the dust in Cocos Keeling.
 |
| Touching up the paint |
Saturday, September 5, 2015
Slow and fast - Rodrigues tour 13 August 2015
Having been in Rodrigues for a couple of weeks we hired a car, together with Phil and Norma from Minnie B.
By getting to the Francois Leguat Giant Tortoise and Cave Reserve by 0930 we ensured an individual tour. Giant land tortoises have been extinct on Rodrigues for around 200 years, following the colonisation of the islands and devastation by sailors seeking food that would stay fresh (alive) for long periods.
Recently a similar species, indigenous to Madagascar, has been introduced. At present the reintroduction is limited to the reserve at the south-west of the island but there are plans to extend this.
The tortoises are mostly contained within a gorge formed by a collapsed cave in the limestone, making an area from which is is difficult (but not impossible- see later) for a tortoise to escape.
They range from new hatchlings to an age of around 100 years with a weight of around 250 kg. Having been largely reared in the reserve they approach humans, rather than having natural caution.
All the tortoises are numbered and regularly monitored.
This experience of tortoise conservation is far superior than anything seen in the Galapagos Archipelago.
Exit from the gorge requires climbing around 50 steps. Some have achieved this. Having done so there is no return as descending steps involves too great a risk of capsize - resulting in death.
Having escaped the gorge they are not outside the reserve - there is an outer fence.
However, the area has been replanted with plant species indigenous to Rodrigues. Some of these have specific adaptations to survive grazing by tortoises, such as a variety of olive which has a coarse needle-like leaf within a tortoise's reach and a much larger leaf where they can't reach.
Perhaps not so good to eat but very attractive - the giant red legged golden orb spider (perhaps Nephila inaurata) - with massively strong web.
Mourouk, at the eastern end of Port Sud-Est is a popular kite-surfing destination. While it is possible to hire boards and learn we opted out. The speeds achieved and some of the stunts looked impressive - a life style choice for some locals.
By getting to the Francois Leguat Giant Tortoise and Cave Reserve by 0930 we ensured an individual tour. Giant land tortoises have been extinct on Rodrigues for around 200 years, following the colonisation of the islands and devastation by sailors seeking food that would stay fresh (alive) for long periods.
Recently a similar species, indigenous to Madagascar, has been introduced. At present the reintroduction is limited to the reserve at the south-west of the island but there are plans to extend this.
The tortoises are mostly contained within a gorge formed by a collapsed cave in the limestone, making an area from which is is difficult (but not impossible- see later) for a tortoise to escape.
They range from new hatchlings to an age of around 100 years with a weight of around 250 kg. Having been largely reared in the reserve they approach humans, rather than having natural caution.All the tortoises are numbered and regularly monitored.
This experience of tortoise conservation is far superior than anything seen in the Galapagos Archipelago.
 |
| The larger ones enjoy having their necks scratched. |
Exit from the gorge requires climbing around 50 steps. Some have achieved this. Having done so there is no return as descending steps involves too great a risk of capsize - resulting in death.
Having escaped the gorge they are not outside the reserve - there is an outer fence.
 |
| Tortoise proof adaptation |
Perhaps not so good to eat but very attractive - the giant red legged golden orb spider (perhaps Nephila inaurata) - with massively strong web.
 |
| Port Sud-Est |
The drive from the SW of the island affords superb views over Port Sud-Est, a large expanse inside the reef, with several islands. There is a tortuous pass into the area with about 2.5 m depth. The entrance and reef are exposed to the SE trade winds just look at those colours!
La fête de l’Assomption, Rodrigues, 15 August 2015
On this date there was a procession starting at 0815 from the catholic church in Port Mathurin up to the statue of Marie, Reine de Rodrigues on the hillside above the town and that this was reported to be quite a spectacle.
According to legend this date originally celebrated the goddess Isis of the sea. In the 4th century Christians took over this pagan ritual and defined it as the date the Virgin Mary ascended to heaven. Verified by Pope Pius X11
it is the principle feast day of the Virgin Mother.
 |
| Gathering at the church |
According to legend this date originally celebrated the goddess Isis of the sea. In the 4th century Christians took over this pagan ritual and defined it as the date the Virgin Mary ascended to heaven. Verified by Pope Pius X11
it is the principle feast day of the Virgin Mother.
Sunday, August 23, 2015
Rodrigues Walks
The east coast of Rodrigues has some spectacular coastal scenery as well as well-marked walks to facilitate its enjoyment. The bus system also (usually) allows access, just allow a day for the entire event.
The A Team of 6 did the first three three walks easy to moderate of about 5- 6 km each.
Other teams of various sizes did the rest.
Our first foray was the easy route from Graviers to Mourouck.- mostly along the beach or the coastal woodland.
We understood that the bus to Graviers was scheduled to leave the bus station in Port Mathurin at 0800. Unfortunately this was the Sunday schedule - on Saturdays it leaves at 0745 - about 5 minutes before we got there. We took the 0900 bus.
This is an easy walk - mostly along the beach or the coastal pine forest.
It also started to rain, which made the paths slippery.
Walk 6 - Riviere Banane to Point Coton - 19 August
The 1100 bus takes a group of 5 to Riviere Banane. This time it does not take us to the end of the road and thus enables us to bypass the first headland.
There is a bit of a scramble around the first two headlands then we head uphill to the cliff top and around the head of the next valley.
We had intended to continue on to St Francois but after a good lunch in the Point Coton hotel we just went home by bus!
Other teams of various sizes did the rest.
Walk 1 - Graviers - Mourouk 1 August 2015
Our first foray was the easy route from Graviers to Mourouck.- mostly along the beach or the coastal woodland.
 |
| Start of the walk - Graviers |
This is an easy walk - mostly along the beach or the coastal pine forest.
 |
| Crowded beach |
 |
| Approaching Mourouk |
Walk 2 - Graviers - St Francois 2 August
The next day - Sunday - the bus timetable shows lots of buses going to and from Graviers. We proposed to walk from Graviers to St Francois. Possibly the fact that there is rumoured to be a restaurant/cafe at St Francois where the speciality is barbecued crayfish, and that we should be there by lunchtime had something to do with this intent.
The next day - Sunday - the bus timetable shows lots of buses going to and from Graviers. We proposed to walk from Graviers to St Francois. Possibly the fact that there is rumoured to be a restaurant/cafe at St Francois where the speciality is barbecued crayfish, and that we should be there by lunchtime had something to do with this intent.
Unfortunately, when we arrived at the bus terminus for the 0900 bus the stand was empty. We were told there "might" be one at 1200. This should have rung alarm bells, but didn't.
 |
| St Francois Bay |
We decided to reverse the walk and took the bus to St Francois, accepting that the crayfish would survive for another day.
This proved to be a more challenging walk. It takes you past three of the most scenic bays/coves on the east coast.
The path between them involves crossing the intervening headlands, in some cases the path requires scrambles up cliffs - not vertical ones.
It also started to rain, which made the paths slippery.
All was achieved safely though and, at the end we found a small restaurant with food and beer!
 |
| Bus stop art |
After lunch we sought the bus stop for the scheduled 1430 bus back to Port Mathurin. We sat there; 1430 came and went. Locals were looking at us strangely - what are these foreigners doing? This is where we thought back - if the 0900 bus didn't run - the 1200 bus "might" run - perhaps no buses to Graviers were running.
Two cars - a saloon and a pick-up stopped and the drivers were looking at us. A deal was concluded and we got driven back to Port Mathurin for MUR 100 (GBP 1.80) each.
Walk 3 - Riviere Banane - Baladirou 5 August
The bus to the start point of this walk goes through the village of Riviere Banane, past the school and down an increasingly rough road. The conductor tells us to stay on at each stop until we reach a turning point where the road turns into a track. From there we walk through well cultivated market gardens to the start of the walk at the mouth of the River - or rather where the nearly dry river bed disappears under the sand of the beach.
The walk varies between easy track through the coastal trees to a scramble over rocks around the headlands.
Off some of the headlands there were fishermen and women - as well as sensible creatures waiting for someone else to do the work
In some cases the track markers point over the rocks despite there being a perfectly good path avoiding them. At other points, particularly towards the end the rock scramble is unavoidable and, at high tide would probably be wet.
At Baladirou - which appears to be a popular bathing spot - there were at least 5 youngsters enjoying a splash. " Which way to the bus stop?" - up a flight of steps and past the shop. The road continued to Grande Baie and Anse aux Anglais to Port Mathurin. Some hardy souls had previously completed the whole route fro Mourouk to Port Mathurin in a day.
Walk 4 - Mont Limon 13 August
A short distance from Mount Lubin is the highest point on the island, Mont Limon 398m. A flight of steps on the right hand side of the road east towards Grande Montagne and Point Coton leads to a path to the top. Here two viewpoints afford panoramic views over much of the island. The walk up and down, including time to admire the views, maximum time- 20 minutes.
Walk 5 - Above Port Mathurin 18 August
This walk was inland from friends Tim and Liz's house on the hillside behind Port Mathurin. A group of about 15 took part.
Tim pointed out an endangered Rodrigues fody which had yet to gain its yellow chest plumage.
The walk goes uphill before crossing a river bed - nearly dry at present but could be a raging torrent in heavy rain - and along the far side of the valley to a viewpoint giving superb views over Port Mathurin and Mathurin Bay.
The bus to the start point of this walk goes through the village of Riviere Banane, past the school and down an increasingly rough road. The conductor tells us to stay on at each stop until we reach a turning point where the road turns into a track. From there we walk through well cultivated market gardens to the start of the walk at the mouth of the River - or rather where the nearly dry river bed disappears under the sand of the beach.
The walk varies between easy track through the coastal trees to a scramble over rocks around the headlands.
 |
| "Fish for lunch please" |
Off some of the headlands there were fishermen and women - as well as sensible creatures waiting for someone else to do the work
 |
| A bit of a scramble |
 |
| Baladirou - end of the walk |
Walk 4 - Mont Limon 13 August
A short distance from Mount Lubin is the highest point on the island, Mont Limon 398m. A flight of steps on the right hand side of the road east towards Grande Montagne and Point Coton leads to a path to the top. Here two viewpoints afford panoramic views over much of the island. The walk up and down, including time to admire the views, maximum time- 20 minutes.
 |
| View to Port Mathurin |
This walk was inland from friends Tim and Liz's house on the hillside behind Port Mathurin. A group of about 15 took part.
Tim pointed out an endangered Rodrigues fody which had yet to gain its yellow chest plumage.
 |
| The river |
 |
| Mathurin Bay |
Walk 6 - Riviere Banane to Point Coton - 19 August
The 1100 bus takes a group of 5 to Riviere Banane. This time it does not take us to the end of the road and thus enables us to bypass the first headland.
 |
| First beach and headland |
We had intended to continue on to St Francois but after a good lunch in the Point Coton hotel we just went home by bus!
 |
| Shortcut - avoiding going round the end |
 |
| On the way up to the clifftops |
 |
| Lunch and beer in sight |
 |
| Point Coton beach |
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)