Slow and fast - Rodrigues tour 13 August 2015

Having been in Rodrigues for a couple of weeks we hired a car, together with Phil and Norma from Minnie B.
By getting to the  Francois Leguat Giant Tortoise and Cave Reserve  by 0930 we ensured an individual tour. Giant land tortoises have been extinct on Rodrigues for around 200 years, following the colonisation of the islands and devastation by sailors seeking food that would stay fresh (alive) for long periods.

Recently a similar species, indigenous to Madagascar, has been introduced. At present the reintroduction is limited to the reserve at the south-west of the island but there are plans to extend this.

The tortoises are mostly contained within a gorge formed by a collapsed cave in the limestone, making an area from which is is difficult (but not impossible- see later) for a tortoise to escape.

They range from  new hatchlings to an age of around 100 years with a weight of around 250 kg. Having been largely reared in the reserve they approach humans, rather than having natural caution.
All the tortoises are numbered and regularly monitored.


This experience of tortoise conservation is far superior than anything seen in the Galapagos Archipelago.

The larger ones enjoy having their necks scratched.

Exit from the gorge requires climbing around 50 steps. Some have achieved this. Having done so there is no return as descending steps involves too great a risk of capsize - resulting in death.

Having escaped the gorge they are not outside the reserve - there is an outer fence.

Tortoise proof adaptation

However, the area has been replanted with plant species indigenous to Rodrigues. Some of these have specific adaptations to survive grazing by tortoises, such as a variety of olive which has a coarse needle-like leaf within a tortoise's reach and a much larger leaf where they can't reach.

Perhaps not so good to eat but very attractive - the giant red legged golden orb spider (perhaps Nephila inaurata) - with massively strong web.

Port Sud-Est

The drive from the SW of the island affords superb views over Port Sud-Est, a large expanse inside the reef, with several islands. There is a tortuous pass into the area with about 2.5 m depth. The entrance and reef are exposed to the SE trade winds just look at those colours!

Mourouk, at the eastern end of Port Sud-Est is a popular kite-surfing destination. While it is possible to hire boards and learn we opted out. The speeds achieved and some of the stunts looked impressive - a life style choice for some locals.