St George's Bermuda, founded 1609

St George's Town Hall

While Hamilton is the present capital of Bermuda, St George's was the original settlement and harbour. Visiting yachts clear in here, while cruise ships go to Dockyard (the former RN dockyard). Many yachts remain here, visiting the rest of the country by bus and/or ferry.
St Georges retains many old buildings and is a main tourist attraction, particularly around the old town square.

Town pillory

The pillory and adjacent stocks in the square do not appear to be used as punishment devices any more, but are popular for "selfies' and photos.

Regular "punishment" is, however, meted out to "a gossip and a scold". This is overseen by the town crier and happens at 1230 most days.

The town crier

The charge is read out

The accused is not without her supporters

About to receive punishment

Punishment is carried out

Still denying the charges she was dunked 6 more times

A tourist was also roped in as the town drunk, although witnesses, including the gossip, maintained that he was drinking with the town crier the previous evening and both were equally guilty. He was sentenced to a whipping at the whipping post, but the sentence was not carried out!

America's Cup boats 2017

The teams that will challenge Oracle for the 35th America's Cup are gathering and preparing at Dockyard in Bermuda. While it is difficult to get close to the boats in the harbour because of security and even more difficult to get close to them on the water because of their sheer speed..

Most of the team bases are in a row. In the morning all the boats, except the Swedish, Artemis Racing and Emiratis NZ were in the water. The other boats are Oracle  USA, Softbank Japan, Land Rover /BAR UK and Groupama France.

Susan persuaded a security guard to escort her in to the village for a reasonably close shot of the Team GB boat. There is a substantial GB base here and the motto is "Bring the cup home".

In the afternoon, as we took the ferry from Dockyard to Hamilton, several of the boats were out on the water. However only  Groupama France, came close enough to the ferry to get a recognisable photo!

Some of the AC45 boats which will participate in the Red Bull Youth America's Cup after the main event were also out practicing. Since 2013 there has been a great emphasis on youth sailing and community involvement from the participating countries.

Left the tropics

Sea Bunny crossed the Tropic of Cancer northbound at 0815 this morning in 64 W. She has not been in northern temperate latitudes since crossing southbound on 23 November 2001. It is likely that this will have been her final departure from the tropics, at least with us on board.

The first 2 days of this passage were roughish - winds only up to about 25kn but very confused 3 m seas which didn't make moving about down below easy, Richard did a near somersault over the table and now his back is suffering.
A lot of sea water was sluicing over the decks, some of this found a deck leak, unfortunately above our clothes locker. Susan's gear on the top shelf was nicely packed in polythene bags. Richard's, on the second shelf, was not. Photo shows his supply of underpants drying in the cockpit after being rinsed by Susan.

Wind and sea now moderated. Indeed we will most likely be motoring a lot to reach Bermuda. We're nearly half way so a small tub of ice cream may be in order to celebrate along with tamarind prawns.

If it ain't broke - don't use it

Eileen Quinn's song title on one of her CD's (all cruisers should listen to them - they are so accurate of the cruising life) may be a recipé for ensuring nothing further goes wrong - but it does limit your options!

From this you may guess that things have been breaking on Sea Bunny!

While in Portsmouth, Dominica, we wanted to reactivate our diving skills. Apart from diving on the boat to clean the hull and fix things, we had not done any diving since Borneo in 2010, so we booked an refresher course in Cabrits National Park, Portsmouth.
This is where the broken bits started coming to light. Susan wanted to put her gear on and go in the water from Sea Bunny before going on the course. Her (BCD) had a major leak which prevented this. She dived with the dive centre's BCD. While we were down on the first dive the instructor observed that Richard had a leak from the high pressure line connecting the air tank to the pressure gauge. A sudden failure of this at depth would be "interesting" as the entire air tank, starting off at 200 bar pressure, would empty very rapidly and noisily. Finally Susan's dive computer was recording random depths but failing to operate  on a dive.
We did, however, update our skills and even saw a sea horse.
Later in Guadaloupe we did more diving at the recommended site of the Ilets à Goyaves (Ilets Pigeon). The first time we cobbled together one working set of equipment - R used the dive operator's regulator assembly and his own BCD. Susan used the operator's BCD but her own regulator and Richard's dive computer. R carried Susan's dive computer in his pocket to check it had a problem - it did . It seems weird to dive with only a pressure gauge but no depth information.

A priority when we hired a car for a couple of days was to update dive gear. The only equipment shop in Guadaloupe is at the marina at Pointe à Pitre. We acquired new hoses for Richard and a new BCD and dive computer for Susan, so we were all up to spec for our next dive at Pigeon Island.

FIXED

In parallel with dive issues the genset had ceased to work, or even start. Symptoms were no compression and evidence of oil, fuel, soot and water around the base of the cylinder head. Aha! thought Richard; blown cylinder head gasket. No problem, we have a replacement, the necessary gaskets and o-rings and I've done this several times.We can go to the marina at Jolly Harbour, Antigua, lift the genset into the cockpit in calm conditions and replace the gasket and o-rings.

Unfortunately, this diagnosis ignored the fact that a broken cylinder head stud, which could not be moved, would give similar symptoms but be significantly more difficult to fix! Coming up to Easter we decided not to fix here as we have a dead line of crew joining us in Bermuda.

Old genset base - surprising it had lasted 16 years

Compounding this, on trying to lift the genset, one of the mounting bolts jammed and we lifted the glassed-in base with the genset. Probably best that the bonding failed in Jolly Harbour rather than half way across the Atlantic but it took 4-5 days to build and glass-in a new base and reinstall the now non-functioning genset.

New base being glassed in

Many yachts cross oceans without the luxury of a genset. We have a powerful alternator on the engine, solar power and wind generators.


NOT FIXED

Ready to lift the set onto its new base, which will be bolted to the new frame

Our Iridium GO satellite communications unit, which we use particularly for email and weather forecasts at sea, normally works well with an external antenna. On arrival at Jolly Harbour it had ceased to do so - failing to connect with the Iridium satellites. Checking resistances appeared to reveal an intermittent fault with the very thin connector between the external antenna cable and the unit itself. We ordered a replacement shipped out from Miami thinking this would fix it.
It hasn't, so we may have to rely on whatever signal we can get with the GO on deck. As it sometimes gets a signal there is just a possibility that the numerous masts etc in Jolly Harbour Marina are preventing a good signal.

? MAYBE FIXED
.

Portsmouth - but no HMS Victory

As befits a place with as illustrious a name as Portsmouth the one in Dominica is well organised for cruisers. The "boat boys" have organised themselves into a cooperative - Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services (PAYS). If you deal with a member you get a professional service whether it be a mooring or a boat or land tour. There is a dinghy dock, an office and even a Sunday night BBQ and disco. We were approached offshore by a member of PAYS, we duly check in the Doyles guide and from then on it become apparent that the members  worked as a happy team.

Treehouse of Tia Dalma 

The Indian River trip, in Providence's boat, is up a small river into the rainforest. Our boatman was proud that one of the first things he showed us was a set from the Pirates of the Caribbean films - not having seen the film we cannot comment!

Heron

 Bird life was sparse, more crabs were in evidence.  The dappled sunlight shining through made it a very pleasant.

Crab on fungus

Buttress tree roots are everywhere

Most interesting was the vegetation..

Bird of Paradise flower - it hangs down , other heliconias go up.

Providence proved skillful at producing sculpture out of palm leaves - ours was a humming bird. On the way back, while rowing, he sang in a deep baritone voice the national anthem of Dominica which was heart warming to hear.

While in Portsmouth we caught up with Phil and Norma (Minnie B), spending a couple of evenings with them and their visitors, including an evening at the PAYS Sunday night BBQ and disco. Stewart and Anne, Bright Eyes also joined us and Stewart reinforced his reputation for stamina by extended dancing with two of the very active local girls - sometimes with both of them together.

Return to Martinique

After saying goodbye to our visitors in St Lucia we headed back to Martinique, with stops in Le Marin mainly for lots of provisioning for future passages and for nostalgic reasons Fort de France. Here we anchored off Fort St Louis to find that the whole area ashore had been pleasantly revamped with walkways and gardens. Once yet another sim card for another country had been purchased so we could go and have fun.
Our hire car was eventually found at the correct cruise ship dock. Tourism has now taken off so much that there are now two.
A leisurely drive up to Grand Riviere through the rain forest, was followed by a leisurely lunch. The sim card didn't do phone tethering and it was quite nerve racking trying to negotiate downtown Fort de France after dark. Fortunately we remembered that the cathredral should be kept to the right side when returning just like the IALA  B buoyage system.

Sacre Couer de Balata

Grande Riviere - end of the road

Wimping out!

Dominica beckoned! We adored Dominica from its high mountains and lush rain forest to the welcoming boat men. In the capital, Roseau, we were able to check in late on a Sunday afternoon. Yes we paid overtime but didn't have to go back, and we got the coastal permit to go to Portsmouth and our outward clearance for up to 2 weeks later all in the one visit.

There are many "boat boys" after your business. Octavius (Sea Cat) is one of the popular ones. We went on a land tour with him in company with Stewart and Anne of Bright Eyes. Although close to us in age, Stewart appeared to have a significantly higher stamina and risk threshold than us. First stop was at Freshwater Lake for a hike around it.

We hadn't realised that to walk round the lake involved crossing a mountain ridge - probably less that 300 m up but still significant.

Onwards and upwards - into the clouds

The vistas through the clouds were stunning and the gentle rain modified the heat.  The arrangement was that Sea Cat would move his taxi to the end of the walk to meet us. We were therefore surprised when he came from behind to meet us. It transpired that he had hidden while we walked past!

Clouds roll in

Titou Gorge

Next stop was the Titou Gorge. Here you enter the river and swim up the gorge to a waterfall, accompanied by a young guide. The water is 15' deep and there is, obviously, current against you. It is quite strenuous and we all required a tow from the guide to get to the end, where there is fortunately an indent in the rock face where you can stand and rest.

Approaching the waterfall

At the waterfall, you "walk" along a semi-submerged ledge to the waterfall which you then climb and jump or dive back into the pool at the bottom. Stewart went first, after the guide.

Stewart being helped to the top - We wimped out at this point!

We wimped out having seen the effort required to get up the waterfall against the flow of water. Stewart reported than he landed on a submerged rock when he made the jump.
Risk assessments do not appear to be part of the deal here!  but it was all great fun.

Trafalgar Falls - Papas

After an excellent creole lunch in a riverside restaurant, it was on to Trafalgar Falls. These are twin waterfalls - 125 m and 75 m high. Sea Cat asked who wanted to go to the top for another swim. The falls were some distance away across a boulder field.

Stewart & Sea Cat at the base of the falls

Not seeing any path or other way of ascending beside the falls we opted out again, but Stewart was still game. Maybe we had misunderstood as, in fact the swimming pool and a nearby warm pool are at the bottom of the higher falls -the top of the boulder field,

Children!

We are slowly recuperating from a 3 week visit by our daughter Catharine and grandsons Archie (10) and Max (7). This was a lovely, if exhausting, experience! The last time we had visitors on the boat, apart from overnight sleepovers, was when Catharine crewed from the Cook Islands to Fiji in 2002!

Forepeak before clearing

Before they arrived the forepeak (aka the Garden Shed) had to be cleared to free up the two bunks (also requiring foam for the cushions to be acquired - we had thoughtfully had covers made when we reupholstered the rest of the boat in 2009). Our folding bikes were given away in Trinidad, allowing sails to be stowed below the bunks.

Ready for first snorkel

We opted to be in Rodney Bay Marina for the first few days of the visit - allowing the boys to get used to living on a boat. This also allowed visits to Massy's supermarkets to obtain essentials such as suitable cereals and other items differing somewhat from our usual diets! It also enabled new snorkelling gear to be tried out in the small pool in the marina.

The first night at anchor was in the relatively protected anchorage by Pigeon Island, allowing a beach trip.

Sailing the Walker Bay

We tried a short trial venture to the north of St Lucia to check the conditions. As these were OK we checked out and headed for France - 25 miles away to the north. Ste Anne is a popular cruiser destination in Martinique, generally sheltered in normal trade winds conditions.

The boys enjoyed their first snorkeling on coral reefs, sailed in the Walker Bay dinghy, chilled out on the floating adventure playground and even sat through an OCC lunch.

Floating trampoline

Exploring the mangroves

The wind turned up an unseasonal strong westerly causing (as the OCC net put it) the geriatrics and those with children aboard to seek shelter in the hurricane hole behind the Club Med resort. Although we qualified on both counts we think we'd have gone there anyway! The boys enjoyed an dinghy trip around the mangrove-lined inlet.

At the fort on Pigeon Island

The next day, as the westerly was dying down, it was time to leave Martinique and head back to St Lucia, intending to get to the very sheltered Marigot Bay but ending up back at Pigeon Island, which was OK despite some residual westerly wave action. Catharine and the boys had time to explore Pigeon Island before we left for Marigot Bay in the morning.

Happy Hour!

Marigot Bay enabled happy hour by the pool - Archie enjoyed his "virgin colada", Max his "tropical punch" and the rest of us more fortifying cocktails. A problem with the alternator, requiring its replacement with the onboard spare, meant that we stayed an extra night with Catharine and Archie doing a strenuous hike and us all enjoying the Thursday night Pink Panther movie - not to mention another happy hour by or in the pool.

Beat that Donald Trump!

A mooring in the lagoon, at USD 30, is extremely good value as it gives access to all the resort facilities (today's room rate on booking.com - USD 488).

MY Ocean Paradise

The superyachts in Marigot Bay impressed the boys, Archie favoured the 53 m sailing yacht Drumbeat (winter charter rate in Caribbean EUR 175,000/ week) while Max liked the 55 m motor yacht Ocean Paradise (winter charter rate in Caribbean USD 300,000-340,000/week). The 42 m motor yacht Maverick  (apparently currently for sale for USD 4,350,000) was also favoured!

Helmsman Archie

Archie steered Sea Bunny to Anse Cochon, a short distance south, which provided the best snorkelling of the visit; probably why many of the dive and tour boats go there.

Pre-dive briefing

Geared up

In the water

Archie, at 10 years old, could do a PADI "discover SCUBA" resort dive. We had previously assessed that SCUBA St Lucia, operating out of the upmarket Anse Chastenet resort just north of Soufriere, was probably the best place for this. They appear to be a very professional outfit and their "house reef" is buoyed off to prevent boat traffic. Catharine (who had dived before when she was with us in 2002) and Archie both dived.

Is it a fish? - No, just Max

Susan took Max snorkelling on the same reef while the others were diving. By this time Max had become a very competent snorkeller.

Several of the tourist "attractions" of St Lucia are accessed from Soufriere, so it was back to Malgretout bay, between Soufriere town and the Pitons, for a few days.

Petit Piton from Tete de Paul

The nature walk to Tete de Paul, with its superb views of the Pitons,

At the sulphur springs

the "drive-in volcano" with its sulphur springs (Rotorua it ain't)

Diamond Falls

and the warm Diamond Falls were all done in a morning with Capt Bob (+1758 7263678) who had accosted us in the street and offered a reasonable (for Soufriere) rate.

A tour of the Morne Caboulet estate, offering an outline of cacao production, copra, sugercane and native plants was done by local bus from Soufriere, although we had to walk back as buses were not in evidence.

The anchorage between the Pitons was a bit of a disappointment - the resorts have taken over the bay and the snorkelling did not seem very special.

Jumping supervisor

Jumping and swimming off the boat was a popular pastime with Max, in particular, developing his confidence by the day.

 Max

Archie

All too soon it was time for Capt Bob to take us all to the airport to send our visitors back to a very chilly Edinburgh.